Are you trying to lower your energy costs but feel like your heating and cooling bills are still too high? You’re not alone. Many people unknowingly make a simple mistake with their thermostat that wastes significant energy. This guide will reveal that common error and share recommended settings to help you save more.

The Costly Habit: Temperature Chasing and “Cranking”

Your comfort settings might be sabotaging your energy bill without you realizing it. The most common thermostat mistake is “temperature chasing,” better known as cranking: big, frequent setpoint changes in hopes of faster heating or cooling. Picture a driver stomping the gas and brake in traffic—the car doesn’t reach the destination sooner; it just wastes fuel. Heating and cooling behave similarly. When you push the setpoint far from the current indoor temperature—say from 67°F (19°C) to 75°F (24°C) all at once—the system runs for an extended stretch, often pushing into less efficient operating zones, and in heat pump setups, potentially triggering energy-hungry auxiliary heat.

Contrary to a popular belief, cranking doesn’t speed up the rate at which your home warms or cools. Most systems deliver heat or cooling at a fixed output. Turning the thermostat higher doesn’t make them work “harder,” just longer, which can overshoot comfort and elevate costs. Over time, constant manual tinkering leads to:
– Longer runtime and more cycles, which increase wear and tear.
– Greater swings in indoor humidity and temperature, which feel uncomfortable and drive more adjustments.
– Spikes in demand during recovery periods, which are less efficient and can prompt costly auxiliary stages to engage.

Evidence from industry testing and efficiency guidance suggests that modest, consistent setpoints and scheduled setbacks can reduce heating and cooling consumption by a noticeable margin over a season. While actual savings depend on your climate, insulation, and equipment, households that avoid extreme swings and stick to scheduled, moderate changes commonly see more stable comfort and lower energy use. The big idea is simple: instead of chasing a feeling in the moment, plan your comfort. That means using small, intentional setpoint changes—especially during predictable routines like workdays and sleep—so your system runs steadily, recovers smoothly, and avoids the expensive “sprint and stumble” pattern caused by cranking.

How Systems Behave: Thermal Inertia, Cycling, and Recovery

Homes have thermal inertia: walls, floors, furniture, and air store heat. That inertia is why a space doesn’t instantly respond to your thermostat—heat flows gradually from warm regions to cooler ones. When you crank the setpoint, the system runs longer to push enough energy through the building’s envelope. The rate of change is limited by equipment capacity and the envelope’s resistance to heat transfer, not by how “high” you set the number. Cooling faces extra hurdles: moisture must also be removed, and fast temperature drops can leave humidity lagging, leading to clammy air and the temptation to crank again.

Understanding cycling helps explain costs. Many furnaces and air conditioners are single-stage or two-stage, meaning they deliver fixed levels of output. Short cycles (turning on and off frequently) are less efficient because each start incurs overhead before reaching steady operation. Long, continuous runs can be efficient in cooling when sensible and latent loads match, but they may become costly during heating if auxiliary stages engage. Heat pumps, in particular, use electric resistance heat to “help” during big recoveries from large setbacks. That helper mode is convenient but energy-intensive.

Recovery matters. If you set a large setback while you’re away, your system may need a long recovery to return to your comfort point. During a winter evening, that can coincide with low outdoor temperatures—exactly when heating systems struggle and may pull auxiliary heat. In humid summers, large warm-ups during the day allow moisture to build up indoors; the cooling system must then run longer to reduce both temperature and humidity to comfortable levels. Practical implications:
– Moderate setbacks (for example, 3–5°F or about 2–3°C) usually balance savings and comfort.
– Predictable schedules reduce oversized recoveries at inconvenient times.
– Let the system reach its target gradually; avoid big, last-minute changes that invite inefficient modes.

Think of your home as a small planet with its own weather. Gentle nudges steer the climate efficiently, while abrupt jolts send it into storms of inefficiency. By respecting inertia and recovery, you allow your equipment to operate in steadier, more economical conditions.

Settings That Work: Seasonal Setpoints, Schedules, and Fan Modes

There’s no single magic number for every home, but practical ranges and routines are well-established. Aim for comfort zones that account for occupancy and sleep while avoiding extremes. For heating when you are home and active, many households find 68–70°F (20–21°C) comfortable; for sleep or away periods, a setback to around 62–66°F (17–19°C) is commonly tolerable. For cooling when home, 75–78°F (24–26°C) balances comfort and energy use; for away periods, 80–85°F (27–29°C) prevents excessive heat buildup without overworking recovery. Adjust a degree at a time to suit your household while keeping changes modest.

Use a daily schedule so changes happen predictably and gradually. A straightforward template:
– Morning: Nudge to your “home/active” setpoint about 30–60 minutes before you wake.
– Daytime: If away, apply a moderate setback (heating down, cooling up).
– Evening: Return gently to your comfort point before you arrive home.
– Night: Apply a sleep setback that suits blankets and personal comfort.

Fan mode also matters. “Auto” typically cycles the fan only when heating or cooling is running, limiting electricity use and avoiding humidity re-evaporation from the coil after a cooling cycle. “On” runs the fan continuously, which can improve mixing but often raises energy use and, in humid climates, can return moisture to the air. A balanced approach is to keep “Auto” for most homes, using short circulation or “circulate” features if available to even out temperatures.

Seasonal nuance helps. In dry, cold winters, slightly lower indoor temperatures may feel fine with proper layering. In humid summers, prioritize dehumidification by avoiding aggressive cool-downs that cause quick temperature drops without adequate moisture removal. Consider:
– Start with these ranges, then fine-tune one degree at a time over several days.
– Track comfort and runtime; aim for small, sustained adjustments, not daily swings.
– If you have zoning or room sensors, let them manage common areas, not just hallways.

These habits integrate comfort with control, replacing on-the-fly guessing with a plan that respects how buildings and equipment actually behave.

Myths, Sensor Placement, and Fixes You Can Do Today

Misconceptions about thermostats linger because they seem intuitive. A few well-known myths deserve a closer look. Myth: “Cranking heats or cools faster.” Reality: most systems have fixed output; a higher number doesn’t add horsepower, it just extends runtime and risks overshoot. Myth: “A huge setback guarantees big savings.” Reality: in very cold or humid conditions, large recoveries can trigger inefficient modes or cause sticky indoor air, offsetting gains. Myth: “Fan ‘On’ is better for air quality.” Reality: continuous fan can re-evaporate moisture after cooling cycles and raise electricity use, especially without upgraded filtration or dehumidification.

Sensor placement often decides whether your thermostat “sees” reality. If the device sits near a supply register, a sunny window, a drafty door, or in a kitchen, readings can be skewed. That leads to short cycling or prolonged runtime even when the rest of the house feels fine. Ideally, the thermostat belongs on an interior wall in a central area with typical airflow, away from direct sun and heat sources. If relocating is impractical, consider remote sensors (when compatible) to average temperatures from lived-in rooms rather than hallways alone.

Simple fixes you can do today:
– Verify your thermostat is level (for older models), clean, and free of dust that could affect sensing.
– Seal air leaks around doors, windows, and attic hatches to reduce load so the system doesn’t struggle during recovery.
– Ensure supply and return vents are open and unblocked; closed vents do not “force” more air to other rooms efficiently and can increase static pressure.
– Replace or clean filters on the recommended schedule; restricted airflow adds cost and undermines comfort.
– Calibrate by comparing the thermostat reading with an accurate room thermometer placed nearby for 15 minutes; adjust offset settings if available.

These no-cost or low-cost steps reduce the temptation to chase comfort with the dial. When the thermostat measures accurately and the home’s envelope is tighter, moderate setpoints work as intended—and the urge to crank quietly fades.

Conclusion and Action Plan: Make Your Thermostat Work Smarter

Small, consistent choices outperform big, impulsive changes. The costly habit is temperature chasing: cranking the setpoint far up or down, then living through long, inefficient recoveries. Replace that cycle with a plan. Start with moderate, predictable setpoints, let the system change gradually, and give comfort a few days to stabilize before making another tweak. Most households can improve both comfort and cost control by aligning schedules with real routines, verifying sensor placement, and choosing fan settings that support humidity management.

Use this week-by-week plan:
– Day 1–2: Record current setpoints, fan mode, and typical runtime or energy use. Note any rooms that feel too warm, cold, or humid.
– Day 3: Set heating to about 68–70°F (20–21°C) when home and 62–66°F (17–19°C) during sleep/away, or set cooling to 75–78°F (24–26°C) when home and 80–85°F (27–29°C) when away. Choose “Auto” for the fan.
– Day 4–5: Observe comfort and humidity. If you feel chilly or warm, adjust by just 1°F (0.5°C) and wait a full day.
– Day 6: Check filter, open blocked vents, and look for obvious drafts. Fix the easy items now.
– Day 7: Review energy data if available; otherwise, note how often the system cycles and whether comfort is steady across rooms. Consider adding remote sensing if your thermostat supports it.

From there, refine by a degree at a time, staying within ranges that match your climate. In colder regions, avoid deep setbacks that could trigger auxiliary heat on recovery. In humid regions, keep cool-downs steady to manage moisture effectively. Revisit settings seasonally, and re-check placement if sunlight or airflow patterns change. Over a month or two, these measured adjustments can translate into a smoother-running system and a bill that trends in the right direction—achieved not by heroic cranking, but by calm, consistent control that fits your life.